patisserie

Craquelin Choux Buns with Honeyed Walnuts, Mascarpone and Orange

A couple of months ago I bought, then promptly forgot about, some delicious pine honey which I intended to use as the central flavour in a pastry-based recipe. Now that it’s been retrieved from the depths of my cupboard it has well and truly fulfilled that destiny in these crisp craquelin choux buns. Simply filled with honeyed orange mascarpone and walnuts (also baked in the honey and a little salt) these make for a delicious treat, but served alongside honey butterscotch sauce and they’re next level- perfect for a fancy Autumnal dessert.

Ingredients

For the craquelin top

  • 55g unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
  • 65g soft light brown sugar
  • 65g plain flour

For the choux

  • 85g butter
  • 220ml water
  • 100g plain flour
  • 3 eggs (plus 1 extra for glazing)
  • pinch of salt

For the filling

  • 300g mascarpone
  • 200ml double cream
  • 2tbsp (heaped) good quality honey (I used Greek Pine Honey)
  • Zest of 2 oranges

For the honeyed walnuts

  • 100g walnuts
  • 2tbsp (heaped) good quality honey (as before)
  • good pinch salt

For the sauce (optional)

  • 75ml honey
  • Juice 1/2 orange
  • 25g butter
  • 100ml double cream
  • Generous pinch salt

Method

  1. Start off by making the craquelin topping (when baked, this forms a crispy sweet layer). To do this simply mix the butter, sugar and flour in a large bowl (or in the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment on a slow speed) until it starts to form large lumps, then bring it together with your hands. Place the dough on a large piece of baking paper, top with another piece of baking paper, and roll out to about 3mm thick. Pop this onto a tray and leave in the freezer to solidify.
  2. To make the choux, put the water, butter and salt in a saucepan set over a medium heat (do not let it boil at this stage). Meanwhile, sieve the flour to remove any lumps. When the butter has melted into the water, increase the heat and bring to a rolling boil, then tip in the flour and stir vigorously until you have a smooth paste-like mix which comes away from the edges of the pan. Continue to stir for another minute to cook out the rawness of the flour, then tip into a clean bowl and close cover with cling film (this eggless stage is known as a ‘panade’). Leave to cool to room temperature.
  3. Preheat the oven to 190c. Line 2 large baking trays with greaseproof paper.
  4. Once the panade has cooled it’s time to add the eggs; whisk in a jug to break them up then very gradually add into the panade while beating with electric beaters. Stop adding the egg (you might have a little leftover) when the smooth, lump-free mixture reluctantly drops off the end of a spoon. Pile the choux mix into a piping bag, fitted with a large round nozzle.
  5. Pipe rounds of about 4cm wide onto the prepared baking trays, leaving plenty of room for expansion. Whisk the remaining egg in a bowl and brush a small amount onto each mound, smoothing down the tip. Take your craquelin sheet and stamp out 3cm circles. Place one on top of each choux mound (the egg will help secure it in place). Bake the choux for around 35 minutes, then skewer a small hole in each bun and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes, to dry out the middles. Once baked, they should be crisp and golden brown with a crackled appearance on top. Cool while you make the other elements.
  6. Toss the walnuts in the honey and salt and spread out on a baking tray. Cook for around 10 minutes or until caramelised then set aside to cool. Once cooled, roughly chop.
  7. For the filling, just whisk together the mascarpone, cream, honey and orange zest until light and smooth. Pile into a piping bag. Finally, for the sauce heat the honey and orange juice in a saucepan and simmer for a couple of minutes, add in the butter and stir until it’s melted, then add the cream and salt. Keep gently simmering, stirring occasionally, until slightly thicker (a few minutes should be fine), then set aside.
  8. To assemble the choux buns, slice each one in half and pipe some mascarpone cream into the base. Top with a sprinkling of walnuts and a little sauce, then place the lid on. Serve with some extra sauce.

Enjoy!

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Hazelnut Latte Eclairs

Everyone loves a chocolate eclair, and these Starbucks inspired ones (filled with coffee cream, dipped in milk chocolate and topped with a strip of dark chocolate and hazelnut praline) make a nice seasonal change from the usual vanilla cream variety.

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Ingredients:

  • 3 eggs
  • 85g butter
  • 220ml water
  • 105g plain flour
  • 100ml strong black coffee, cold
  • 2 tbsp light brown soft sugar
  • 300ml double cream
  • 100ml mascarpone
  • 2 tbsp icing sugar
  • 100g hazelnuts
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 100g milk chocolate
  • 100g dark chocolate

Method:

  1. Preheat the oven to 200c. Line 2 large baking trays with greaseproof paper. Sieve the flour twice to ensure there are no lumps then pour onto a square of greaseproof (this means it is ready to tip straight into the choux when you need it!).
  2. Place the butter and water in a saucepan. Heat gently until the butter has melted then bring to a boil. Once boiling, remove from the heat and immediately shoot in all the flour. Stir very quickly for about a minute until the mixture is shiny and coming away from the sides of the pan. Now tip into a large bowl and spread thinly to speed up cooling.
  3. Once the choux mixture (called a panade at this egg-less stage!) has cooled to room temperature it’s time to add the eggs. Whisk the eggs in a jug to break them up then pour 1/4 into the bowl. Whisk with electric beaters to fully incorporate, then keep adding  a little more and whisking until you reach a dropping consistency (this means the mixture should fall off a spoon when shaken after about 4 seconds). You might not need all the egg.
  4. Pile the choux into a piping bag and pipe 5 inch lines onto the prepared sheets (leaving space for expansion). Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden then pierce each eclair with a skewer, reduce the temperature to 180c and bake for a further 10 minutes to dry out. When they’re ready they should be crisp and nicely browned. Cool on a wire rack while you make the fillings and toppings.

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  1. For the coffee cream, heat the brown sugar and coffee together then set aside to cool.
  2. In a large bowl whisk together the mascarpone, cream and icing sugar until thick. Fold in the coffee mix when it’s cooled completely.
  3. For the hazelnut praline, place the sugar and nuts in a small saucepan. Stir occasionally to encourage the sugar to melt then take it to a deep golden colour. Pour onto greaseproof  paper, leave to harden then break into pieces or smash into a dust (depending on your decorating ideas!).
  4. For the chocolate topping simply melt the milk chocolate and allow it to cool. If you’d like to recreate the chocolate strip just melt and set the dark chocolate on a flat surface in the fridge, then slice into your desired shapes.
  5. To assemble the eclairs, slice them in half and fill with the coffee cream, dip in the melted chocolate and decorate with the set dark chocolate and praline.

Enjoy!

Rhubarb and Custard Eclairs

After catching up with last weeks Patisserie round on Bake Off, I decided to whip up my own eclairs using some rhubarb from the garden… What I came up with combines crisp choux pastry filled with stewed rhubarb and a delicious vanilla custard- what’s not to like?

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First, make the vanilla custard filling. For this you will need: 300ml milk, 2 egg yolks, 50g caster sugar, 1 vanilla pod, 4tsp plain flour, 4tsp cornflour, 300ml double cream (lightly whipped).

Mix together your egg yolks, caster sugar and the seeds from the vanilla pod in a bowl. After these are well combined gradually add the flours a little at a time, making sure you mix well between each addition.

Now heat your milk in a saucepan until just boiling. Add to the paste-like mix in the bowl and whisk, then return to the saucepan and heat for 3-5  minutes (or until well thickened). If it becomes lumpy, just whisk more vigorously.

Transfer to a bowl and cover with clingfilm to avoid a skin forming. After half an hour the custard will become almost set- now you need to stir to loosen then fold in the cream- your filling is now ready for piping!

Now prepare the rhubarb element of the filling; you will need: 3 sticks rhubarb, 3tbsp ginger syrup, 4tbsp caster sugar.

Heat the oven to 180c (fan).

Roughly chop the rhubarb and spread onto a baking tray. Drizzle over the ginger syrup and sprinkle on the caster sugar then cook for 15-20 minutes or until the rhubarb is soft.

Using the back of a fork squash the rhubarb and transfer to a bowl. It should be sticky and soft. Leave to cool.

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For the choux pastry, I followed Paul Hollywood’s basic recipe. You can find that here .

To assemble the eclairs, you will need: your choux buns, the vanilla custard, the roasted rhubarb, a sprinkling of ginger, 5tbsp icing sugar with a little water and food dye, and some crystallised ginger for decoration (optional).

Slice your choux buns in half horizontally. Take a piping bag and fill with the vanilla custard. Pipe little dots of the filling inside the bottom half of the bun until covered.

Now take your rhubarb and place on top of the custard layer (as pictured above). Close the lids on top.

Mix the icing sugar with a little water and food dye and drizzle over the tops of the buns for added sweetness, then place a piece of crystallised ginger at one end with a mint leaf as a final flourish.

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I hope you enjoy this latest recipe!

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